Clivias plants which is also known as
kaffir lilies (C. miniata) are luminous and lovely on a gloomy winter’s day as
they shine like little beacons of orange, red, yellow and cream under the shade
of a tree. The bright colors of the plant bring a touch of the tropics to your
winter garden. You can easily grow them indoors where you can have a roaring
blaze of color brightening the dark corners of your room.
And in summer when the flowers have
finished you can easily collect the big, bold seeds to grow more, and also use
the dense, dark-green foliage as a backdrop to your summer specials. That’s
called being cluey with clivias!
Clivias Plant Care
Planting: Before planting them in
spring or autumn, prepare the soil by digging over with a generous quantity of compost.
Position each of the plant 50cm apart and also ensure that the white part of
the stem is almost buried.
Location: A dappled shade, morning
sunlight only. In heavy shade the plant will grow leggy and not flower so well.
Climate requirement: The plant is drought
tolerant but not frost tolerant.
Soil requirement: Loamy and
free-draining. Not clay.
Feeding: Make sure you water the soil
regularly in spring and summer, and then sparingly in autumn and winter. Do not
let water settle in foliage crowns as this encourages fungal rot. The plant
actually like dry shade and will flower more prolifically. In autumn you can spread
compost over the soil and after flowering has finished apply organic
fertilizer.
Mulch: You can spread organic mulch
between plants once a year.
Aftercare
When flowering has finished you can
easily remove the stems close to the base, unless you want the seeds.
How to divide Clivias Plant
To ensure that your Clivias plants
stay healthy and blooming, replant every 4 to 5 years in late spring or early
summer when they’ve finished flowering. This is also a good time to divide them
or separate the offsets so you can double your stock.
When an offset has 4 of its own leaves,
dig up the whole plant and then cut the offset from the parent with a clean,
sharp knife – be sure to include some roots – and place the offset in potting
mix or equal parts of peat moss and coarse sand or perlite and keep warm in
medium light.
You can water to keep the medium
moist, but not saturated. Plant them in the garden when the roots appear on the
medium’s surface. Replant the parent but, before replanting, dig over the soil
with compost to aerate and nourish it.
How to grow Clivia from Seed
The big red or yellow berries (it
depends on flower color) actually arrive in early spring as flowering dies
down. You can pick the berries and then remove the flesh around the dark,
pearl-like seeds.
Wash the seeds in a mild fungicide
solution and then press into seed-raising mix or very fine pine bark, but don’t
bury them. The seeds will germinate in about a month and in 6 months they can
be transferred to larger pots.
Or you can leave the berries on the
plant until they are shriveled and the flesh dry. Wash the seeds in fungicide
and plant them immediately so they don’t dry out.
The Clivias plants are slow growers
and it can take up to 5 years for a seed to grow into a flowering plant. Keep
in a warm, protected, ventilated spot out of direct sunlight. Water in spring
and summer, ensuring soil is damp but not wet and fertilize every couple of
weeks. Pot up regularly until they are strong enough for your garden bed.
How to Grow Clivia in Pots
The position: Indoors near a window
that gets morning sunlight, or in a shady spot on your veranda, deck or
courtyard.
Temperature requirement: The plant
enjoy a warm spot but need about 2 months of cool temperatures (about 10C) in
winter to ensure good flowering.
Water requirement: Keep potting mix
moist in spring and summer. Over-watering can easily cause root rot, so allow
excess water to drain away. Do not use a pot saucer but put your pots on feet
instead. Terracotta pots are actually the best as they absorb excess moisture.
Reduce watering in autumn and stop watering in winter. You can resume watering
when flower stalks appear at the end of winter. Do not mist spray the leaves.
Feeding: You can apply liquid fertilizer
every 2 weeks from when the flower stalks are half developed, and then continue
until autumn.
Fertilizer requirement: You can feed
immediately after flowering with a general purpose fertilizer plus top ups
until mid summer.
Flowering: Avoid moving when in flower.
After flowering remove stalk with a clean, sharp blade, otherwise berries will
emerge and will take so much energy there won’t be enough left for flowering
next year.
Repotting: Pot up every 3 to 4 years
when the roots fill the pot, they flower best when becoming pot bound - and
separate offsets. Leave 5cm from rim of pot to the top of fresh potting mix
because, as roots grow, they lift the mix. Enrich mix with blood and bone.
Repot in late winter as flower stalks start to grow.
Clivia Plant Problems
Snails and slugs actually eat
foliage, new growth, buds and flowers. You can easily pick them off and destroy
or lay sharp objects on top of your soil.
Fungus gnats produce larvae that eat
new roots and carry fungal spores. You can use yellow sticky card traps to
attract adults. Ditto for white fly and thrips.
The black and yellow striped
amaryllis caterpillar is hungry for greens. You can pick them off and destroy
or use an organic pesticide.
Aphids, mealybugs, scale and mites
thrive in warm, damp conditions and suck the vital sap juices from the Clivia plant.
You can wash with soapy water or dab with alcohol-saturated cotton swabs.
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